中文题名: | 时尚与反时尚——20世纪60年代美国文化运动与时尚互动关系研究 |
姓名: | |
学科代码: | 010106 |
学科专业: | |
学生类型: | 硕士 |
学位: | 哲学硕士 |
学位年度: | 2014 |
校区: | |
学院: | |
研究方向: | 审美文化 |
第一导师姓名: | |
第一导师单位: | |
提交日期: | 2014-06-06 |
答辩日期: | 2014-05-22 |
外文题名: | Fashion and Anti-fashion——Interaction Relations between culture movement and fashion during 1960s in USA |
中文摘要: |
1960-1970年代,以美国为代表的西方社会兴起了多种社会运动,如黑人民权运动、女权运动、反战运动、青年亚文化运动,这使得美国社会充满了反叛与解放,冲突与变革。与这种社会现实相呼应的是,在时尚界,出现了前所未有的风格,一改过去单纯追求和谐高雅的传统,反叛成为了流行。本文旨在描述那个时代有代表性的时尚风格,并且从符号学和女性主义理论出发寻找这些时尚出现的原因。本文分成四章。前言对本论文的研究对象做了简单介绍。第一章介绍20世纪六七十年代美国社会的背景,包括第二波女权运动的兴起、黑人民权运动和反越战运动、叛逆青年的造反运动。这些社会运动构成了美国,甚至整个西方社会当时动荡、变革、反叛的基调,为本时期时尚提供了根本的社会原因。第二章介绍了该时期有代表性的时尚实践,包括中性化着装、嬉皮士风格、朋克风格等,本文介绍了这些风格的典型形象和主要采纳这种时尚的人群。第三章分别从符号学和女权主义理论出发,探究该时期时尚出现的原因。按照符号学的理论,时尚是一种语言,有交流表达的功能,服装通过意指系统,指涉人们的思想观念。嬉皮士和朋克通过对符号,特别是现成符号的运用,表达对社会主流文化的反叛。按照女权运动的理论,时尚是男权社会对女性的压迫,第二波女权运动者大多反对时尚,或者追求中性化的时尚。第四章解释了时尚作为当代社会不可或缺的一部分,消费文化控制了时尚领域,时尚的循环逻辑和不断求新使其成为促进消费的最佳手段之一,原本充满反叛精神的反时尚风格被消费文化驯服了。这些风格变成商品,被大量生产和销售,反而成了新的时尚。
﹀
|
外文摘要: |
There were many social movements in 1960s and 1970s.In USA, Civil Rights Movement,feminist movement,anti-war movement and youth subculture movements happened.The period was filled with rebellion and liberation,as well as conflict and revolution.In conformity with it, some outstanding fashion trends occurred.The rebellious is popular,and the single-minded pursuit of elegance and harmonious beauty is outdated.The essay is aimed at describing typical fashion trends in that period,and tries to search a reason based on semiology and feminist theory. The essay has four parts.Intoduction presents the studying object.Chapter I describes the background of that period in USA,including Civil Rights Movement,feminist movement,anti-war movement and youth subculture movements.The movements made the US society revolutionary,volatile and rebellious.The movements laid the foundation fashion. Chapter II describes some typical fashion practices during that time.They are unisex,Hippies and Punk.The essay describes features and supporters of the trends. Chapter III is the main part of the essay,it explores the reason for the special fashion trends during that period.The chapter uses semiology and feminist theory.According to semiology,fashion is a kind of language,it can be used to communicate and convey information.Clothing can refer to people’s thoughts.For example, Hippies and Punk made use of clothing symbol,especially the readymade symbols,to show their dissatisfication and rebellion for mainstream society.While the feminists freaks out fashion,they regard fashion as a patriarchy pressure.Fashion put women at a disadvantage position. Chapter IV illustrated fashion as an inseparable part of contemporary society.Consumption culture had controlled fashion,and fashion was becoming the best approach of promoting sales.The originally rebellious anti-fashion styles were tamed,and the styles were produced and sell in massive scale,which became new fashion.
﹀
|
参考文献总数: | 36 |
馆藏号: | 硕010106/1402 |
开放日期: | 2014-06-06 |