“饮食书写”是梁秉钧（也斯）创作最鲜明的特色之一。梁的饮食书写数量多、题材广泛，涉及诗歌、小说、散文三种文体。在梁早期的都市书写、行旅书写和咏物诗探索中，“饮食”是高频出现的题材。一九九七年之后，梁有意识地从“饮食”勾连起人际关系、历史记忆、跨文化交流等问题，较大地拓展了饮食书写的意义空间。本文将以“饮食”为线索重新梳理梁秉钧一生的创作。

本文共分为四章，第一章主要分析“饮食”如何构成梁秉钧1970年代本土观察的窗口。梁从香港的菜市场、大排档等场所捕捉到了热闹喧嚣的市井生活气息，从餐饮老店里发现了美好的精神质素，也从餐饮店的变化觉察到消费主义对传统人情人性的侵蚀。

第二章主要探讨“饮食”在梁秉钧早期行旅书写中的作用。在游历大陆城市时，梁通过追寻古代先贤的口味，感受中国传统文化的精神气脉；从餐桌的变化观察社会历史的变迁；从相似相通的饮食经验寻找文化共鸣。在异国的旅行中，梁也通过品尝食物、参观器皿等想象异国民众的日常生活，从食物观察华人移民所经历的中西文化冲突与生存困境，思考如何用中国文化智慧与精神，帮助华人更好地生活。

第三章主要分析梁秉钧在1997年前后针对香港历史转折而作的饮食书写。面对社会历史变迁，梁想到以饮食为切口讨论社会问题，此后，饮食书写成为他重点探索的领域。梁以港人混杂的餐桌展现了香港多元化的文化特征，也从狂欢式的饮食捕捉到了焦虑不安的社会情绪。此外，梁尝试从本土饮食文化中寻找精神养分——灵活应变、乐观进取、包容差异与变化的精神韧性，试图为应对时代问题提供某种启迪。

第四章主要分析梁秉钧从新世纪以来的饮食书写。梁从世界各地特色食物思考当地的历史文化记忆，也从个人饮食习惯观察社会历史变迁。在生命末期，梁更多地聚焦百姓家常菜，从烹调、搭配之道发掘生活智慧，从食物的特征生发对人际关系、情感欲望、价值观念的思考。越到生命后期，梁越是倡导返璞归真，从最简单的食物里感受人生五味，为后现代商业社会的浮躁风气提供了某种疗救。

总的来看，梁秉钧饮食书写的主题随着香港社会、其个人经历的变化而变化，但他始终将食物作为思考的食粮，用以观察城市生活、社会文化的动向。梁无意详细展现食物的做法与味道，而是从中发掘民众智慧与人情人性，希望借助民间文化的精神养分，将香港建设成为一个更理想的家园。梁对民生智慧的肯定、对日常生活的关注、对理想家园的思考也超越了地域局限，展现出了世界性的文化关怀。

"Food Writing" is one of the most distinctive features of Leung Ping-kwan's works. Leung's creations about food are numerous and have a wide range of themes, covering three genres: poetry, fiction, and prose. In Leung's early works of urban writing, travel writing, and object-chanting poems, "food" was a frequent topic. After 1997, Leung consciously connected the issues of interpersonal relationship, historical memory and cross-cultural communication from "food", which greatly expanded the meaning space of food writing. This paper will use "food" as a clue to rethink Leung 's life-long literary career.

This paper is divided into four chapters. The first chapter analyzes how "food and drink" constituted a window into Leung's observations of Hongkong in the 1970s. From the food markets and stalls in Hong Kong, Leung captures the bustling atmosphere of city life, finds good qualities in ordinary people in old restaurants, and perceives the erosion of consumerism on traditional human sympathy and nature from the changes of restaurants in Hong Kong.

The second chapter mainly discusses the role of "food" in Leung Ping-kwan's early travel writing. In his travels to cities in mainland China, Leung felt the spirit of traditional Chinese culture by tracing the taste of ancient sages; He observed the changes of social history from the changes of the people’s diet, and looked for cultural resonance from similar eating experiences with local people. During his travels to foreign countries, Leung imagined the daily life of foreigners by tasting local food and visiting kitchen utensils. Besides, from the perspective of food, he observed the conflict between Chinese and Western cultures and the survival predicament experienced by Chinese immigrants, and thought about how to use the wisdom and spirit of Chinese culture to help Chinese people live a better life.

The third chapter focuses on the analysis of Leung Ping-kwan's food writing around 1997 in response to the historical transition of Hong Kong. In the face of social and historical changes, thought of discussing social problems through food, and since then, food writing has become a focus of exploration for him. Leung presents the cultural diversity of Hong Kong from the mixed diet of the citizens, and captures the anxious social mood from citizens' binge on food. In addition, Leung tries to find spiritual nutrients from the local food culture— tenacity, optimism, and tolerance of differences and changes, trying to provide some enlightenment to cope with the problems of the times.

Chapter 4 focuses on Leung Ping-kwan's food writing since the new century. Leung reflects on local historical and cultural memories from the special food around the world, and also observes social and historical changes from personal eating habits. In his final years, Leung focused more on ordinary people's home dishes, explored the wisdom of life from the way of cooking and food collocation, and was willing to think more about interpersonal relations, desires and values from the characteristics of food. At the end of his life, Leung advocated returning to simplicity and feeling the taste of life from the simplest food, providing some kind of cure for the impetuous atmosphere of the post-modern commercial society.

In general, the themes of Leung's food writing changed with the changes of Hong Kong society and his personal experience, but he always regarded food as the nutrition for thinking, to observe the trends of urban life and social culture. Leung did not intend to show how food is prepared and tasted in detail. Instead, he explored the wisdom in people's daily life and human nature from food culture, hoping to make Hong Kong a more ideal home with the spiritual nourishment of folk culture. Leung 's affirmation of the life wisdom of the people, his attention to daily life, and his thinking about the ideal home have gone beyond the geographical limitations, showing the worldwide cultural concern.